11 posts tagged "Vena Cava"
After last season’s East London-fueled nail art explosion (think Gareth Pugh, Henry Holland, PPQ, and J. Maskrey), we had a hunch that Spring would prove equally exciting in the lacquer department. Having seen two shows already today, it appears as though the trend will indeed continue on. At Vena Cava, Butter London’s Nonie Crème broke out the press-on nails. “Because they’re not actually on your hand, you can play with the polish a bit more,” said Crème. She did so by using two coats of her greige Yummy Mummy and one coat of Black Jack on the moon portion of each nail. (Pro tip: Use fake nails that are pre-glued rather than those that require manual adhesive applications, and removal is easy with a few quick drops of baby oil!) Over at Ruffian, where Brian Wolk and Claude Morais have made the moon manicure their trademark for the last few years, CND’s Amanda Fontanarrosa brought in pre-prepped nails that boasted a custom-blended “flawless” ivory base with black moons and tips. The pièce de résistance? Each model’s ring finger got a hand design in the form of the Ruffian logo. Ladies, to your nail pens!
“Equestrian, but super hip and cool, not stuffy,” is how hairstylist Ted Gibson for Beauty.com described his inspiration backstage at Vena Cava this morning, where he gathered models’ hair into low ponytails that looked primed for riding helmets. Floppy, wide-brimmed hats more Soho than Saratoga Springs were the headgear of choice on Sophie Buhai and Lisa Mayock’s runway, however, which explains the “urban” touches Gibson added to his coifs, namely Streekers temporary hair color in purple, pink, and green; and Velcro leather cuffs in place of plain old hair bands. Makeup artist Lloyd Simmonds abided by a similar theme, creating a sun-kissed flush on models’ faces as though they’d been out frolicking in the country. He dabbed MAC Pro Cream Colour Base in Orange Alarm onto the apples of their cheeks for a warm flush and topped two neutral shimmer shades in Antiqued Gold and Mid-tone Sepia with some targeted face gloss for added shine on eyelids and cheekbones. As for that red lip, it’s all about the MAC Pro Lipmix. An incredibly saturated tube formula, it allows for total color opacity and a surprising amount of control; Simmonds didn’t even need to use a liner to keep those crimson pouts perfectly precise.
We just came from backstage at Vena Cava, where nails were painted a curious shade of cloudy, sparkly eggplant. “Fabulously awkward” is how Butter London’s Nonie Creme described the custom color she whipped up by mixing a handful of dark polishes with a white pigment for depth. “It started out as a traditional vamp nail, but it just felt so over,” she said of the popular berry shade that always comes back into fashion when Fall rolls around. How to avoid being just another girl with a deep burgundy nail is a problem we too have contemplated when we venture into darker varnishes come September. Creme’s advice: texture. “Take all of your traditional dark lacquers and add a coat of a Jelly polish
on top to switch things up a little bit.” Her tip: Try a classic black with a layer of sheer sparkly orange for a great alternative to that stash of Bordeaux. More on the presentation’s full look in a bit.
When we made our way to the second floor of Milk Studios for Vena Cava, our first backstage encounter at the revamped venue, we were greeted by an unexpected sight. Models were walking between the hair and makeup stations sporting deep violet pouts, a hue that tends to be included in the fall color palette more so than spring. “Makeup doesn’t have to be seasonal,” makeup artist Lloyd Simmonds explained of the custom color he created using four different shades of MAC Pro Lipmix in White, Burgundy, Red, and Blue. Unwilling to make the call that darker lip shades will persist into next year (“this is my first show!” he quipped), Simmonds did mention that his motivation to stray from the pastel lilacs more suitable to the season had little to do with a desire to break the mold and was actually a direct correlation with the collection itself. “It comes from the clothes,” he said of the color, which he kept matte for a touch of sophistication, a word hairstylist Ted Gibson also used to describe his coifs. Gibson called his messy chignons “sophisticated chic. Not too put-together, put still put-together,” a dichotomy he achieved by twisting the models’ ponytails before pinning them into buns and pulling pieces out in the back for texture. The nails were a similar mix of business casual, a turquoise/cobalt shade Butter London’s Nonie Creme whipped up especially for the occasion. “We’re calling it Corporate Blue,” she said of the bright lacquer, a reference to the background color of a Staples ad the designers sent her way for a point of reference. It’s all about finding inspiration in the everyday, no?
BISABOLOL/ (biz-ah-bowl-uhl)/ n./ 1. A clear, slightly yellowish liquid extracted from the essential oil of the chamomile plant, Matricaria Recutita;/ n./ 2. An anti-irritant and anti-inflammatory ingredient with a faint, calming floral scent that is often used to soothe sensitive skin, e.g., “Darphin’s multifunctional cleansing water bolstered with Bisabolol was essential to relieving models’ stressed skin backstage at Vena Cava.”
Try it: Darphin Azahar Cleansing Micellar Water, $50, www.beauty.com.