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August 23 2014

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23 posts tagged "Versace"

A Relaxed Rock Star Look, Backstage At Versace

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versace-beauty“For Donatella, this is very minimal makeup,” said face painter Pat McGrath. But then again, only Donatella would consider a set and a half of false lashes “minimal.” With Axl Rose and Stephanie Seymour serving as muses (there were concert-like tees, ruched biker shorts, and a shimmery take on denim incorporated into the collection), McGrath created a rocker-worthy eye by rimming the upper and lower rims and waterlines with an ebony-colored pencil. For a smoky finish, she topped off the black along the bottom lashes with a gray-brown powder shadow. In addition to mascara, faux fringe was used to amplify the eyes, and a half pair was stacked on the outer corners for an elongating effect. The rest of the face was actually quite pared down—with a clear balm on lips, a hint of nude-rose blush for warmth, and a touch of highlighter dabbed on the cupid’s bow, cheekbones, inner corners and center of the lids.

As for the hair, Los Angeles was yet again mentioned backstage—this time the music scene—and strands were left lank and nearly untouched. Mane master Guido Palau made a center part and misted Redken Powder Refresh 01 all over for texture—concentrating the majority of product from mid-length to ends. For girls who needed slightly more help to achieve “movement,” he wound strands into a chignon and released them just before show time, while other members of Palau’s team opted to wrap sections loosely around a curling iron.

The total package wasn’t nearly as complicated as we’ve seen in season’s past (in fact, the majority of models were ready by 5:30 for a 7 p.m. show), but the beauty DNA remained unchanged, explained Palau. “Its still got the same code—rock ‘n’ roll and sexiness—[both] key to the Versace woman.”

High-Speed, High-Shine Treatments at Patrick Melville Salon

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Versace blondI don’t have any problem admitting that I color my hair. I was a towhead as a kid, but that natural, sunlit blonde slowly faded into a bland dirt-brown shade that has nothing going for it. So anything that prolongs my fresh-from-the-salon golden highlights is a major asset. This summer, I’m striving for a superrich “Versace blonde” that is marked by amazing amounts of shine. A writer friend of mine—who happens to possess such glossy locks—conveniently introduced me to Jeffrey Pearce, a resident colorist at the Patrick Melville Salon who recently started doing Kérastase Fusio Dose “speed” treatments on his model clients to preserve their color and sheen. “I’ve been using this instead of glazes,” he says of the customized service that involves fusing together two potent elixirs—a base composed of reflective micro-polymers that adhere to the surface of hair and a booster of polyphenols to prevent fading. And there’s no waiting around forever with the masklike concoction on your head. Since the ingredients work “on contact,” Pearce says, “it’s pretty much a five-minute treatment.” Afterward, you leave with five mini sets of the base and booster to take home, so you shouldn’t have any problem stretching out the results.

Makeup Just for Men

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Versace-Moncler-MakeupTypically, about halfway through the menswear shows, someone steps up and uses the runway medium to showcase the kind of face and body painting that comes standard during the women’s collections. For Spring 2014, that moment came as the Milan schedule neared completion. Nothing goes better with cricket whites than black lipstick Thom Browne suggested at Moncler Gamme Bleu this weekend, while Donatella Versace commissioned a diverse array of compression tape backstage at her show to create colorful, crisscrossed swirls down models’ legs, arms, and torsos. All this and the Paris shows haven’t even started yet! Stay tuned for more men’s beauty marks.

Photo: Antonio de Moraes Barros Filho/Getty Images; Kuba Dubrowski / WWD

Cuff Love

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Call it an offshoot of the overarching punk trend that swept the Fall shows, but a lot of designers showcased a single earring on the runway rather than a set. From the tiny gold cuffs at Chloé and the sprawling sapphire-dotted branches at Thakoon to the giant nails at Versace and the Delfina Delettrez-designed magic-eye drops at Kenzo, it was often one and done when it came to ear accessories. In an interesting turn of events, hair looks were frequently choreographed around this styling decision, leaving front sections slicked back or tucked behind these “bejeweled ears,” as Peter Philips referred to them backstage at Dries Van Noten. Now, it appears as though the movement is continuing down under. As Camilla and Marc kicked off Sydney fashion week today, Marc Jacobs muse Ruby Jean Wilson sported a rhinestone-studded spiked cuff on the catwalk, leading a pack of longer-haired models with their shoulder-grazing strands pulled away from their left ears—a festive way to keep unruly locks out of your face, if anything. Thoughts on the utilitarian style?

Photo: Luca Cannonieri / Gorunway.com; Lisa Maree Williams/Getty Images

“A Nod To Punk,” Backstage At Versace

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“There’s a nod to punk in the collection,” Pat McGrath said backstage at Versace, referring to the studs, the chains, the PVC leather, and the nail closures that offered an update on the classic safety pins that once adorned similar frocks from the house that Gianni built. But in a funny twist of irony, that nod did not incite the makeup artist to seize upon the opportunity to offer up a smokier version of the typically black-rimmed lids she creates here season after season. “It’s just a little bit of an edge,” she explained.

Keeping skin “gorgeous and glowing,” McGrath lined the inner rims of eyes with an onyx kohl pencil, piling mascara onto the upper lashes while giving lower lashes just one or two slicks of the wand. Using a creamy blush on cheeks, she turned to a similarly flushed shade to slightly stain lips and eyes. “It works with that black,” McGrath explained of the increasingly popular ruddy shadow shade. “It looks healthy.”

Healthy complexions were essential here, considering Guido Palau’s “boyish but still very glamorous” coifs were entirely pulled back, putting the focus squarely on the face. Drying hair with Redken Satinwear 02 Ultimate Blow-Dry Lotion for a “super-silky,” straight texture, Palau side-parted strands to the left and then coated his brush with its Forceful 23 Super Strength Finishing Spray before adding a bit of height to the hairline with a “comb up,” as he referred to the defined, quifflike ridge in the front. “It’s a little bit rock ‘n’ roll—and still sexy, of course,” Palau pointed out of the admittedly younger look. “It is Versace.”