20 posts tagged "Wella"
Angela Missoni may have been inspired by her daughters’ late night antics on the island of Sardinia for Spring, but her hair and makeup team looked a bit further west for their seasonal muse. “It’s sweaty, sexy flamenco skin with a focus on brows,” facepainter Lucia Pieroni said, creating a dewy base with MAC Face + Body Foundation and adding swipes of glistening highlights with her favorite new product, MAC Metal-X Cream Shadow in Fusion Gold, which she blended over cheekbones, down the bridge of the nose and onto the chin to mimic “hot, sweaty” skin. To create a touch of contour, Pieroni swiped its Paintpot in Groundwork, a medium taupe-y brown, underneath cheekbones and across lids for a warm smolder. Brows were built up using MAC Eyeshadow in Coquette and Copperplate and lips were given a finger-pressing of MAC Lipsticks in Freckletone and Fresh Brew for a worn-in, neutral effect. As a finishing touch, Pieroni spritzed each model with MAC Fix+ water mist before they head out onto the runway to hammer home the sense of a faux glow.
Wella global creative director added a similarly youthful, deconstructed element to “inject a rawness that would capture the passion and sensuality of a beautiful young Missoni woman at the end of a hot summer night.” Applying Wella Professionals Velvet Amplifier on wet strands, Souleiman hit hair with heat to create volume before “squashing” its Rugged Fix Matte Molding Crème into the roots for a matte texture. Then, after carving out deep side parts, Souleiman gathered the lengths into a ponytail that he only pulled through half way, pinning it against itself to create a loop that he spritzed with Wella Professionals Ocean Spritz Beach Texture Spray for a rough finish. “It’s a traditional, slick Spanish look that’s deconstructed and disheveled,” Souleiman said, sliding decorative, snake shaped combs into his haphazard chignons.
Playing with tone rather than a range of different face colors has become one of the prevailing beauty trends to come out of the New York shows. The look backstage at Narciso Rodriguez provided yet another example of the technique’s versatility. “Intensely monochromatic” is how Shiseido artistic director Dick Page described the makeup, for which he played around with a single product: a mauve-y, prototype cream base. Page applied the pigment onto lids as well as underneath the lower lash line before blending it with Shiseido Shimmering Rouge Lipstick in Dragon, a soft red that was reduced to a warm nude when pressed onto pouts. As is customary at a Narciso show, brows were built up using Shiseido’s Shimmering Cream Eye Shadow, which Page insisted on applying himself. “No one else can be trusted!” he joked.
The makeup and Deborah Lippmann’s gray Waking Up in Vegas lacquer were purposely subdued to account for the large amount of color in the collection—and in the hair (kudos to Rodriguez for getting two of NYFW’s big beauty movements into one show). “We were looking at pictures of girls with streaks and I said, enough of that,” Wella global creative director Eugene Souleiman explained of the look, which included a conical twist with bright, matted-down sides coated with spray-on hair color and copious amounts of Wella Super Set finishing spray (“you get what you’d get with a gel in half the time,” Souleiman said of the product’s quick-dry, defining abilities). Going for something “modern and striking,” the coiffing star chose five different accent shades, including white, bright orange, neon green, turquoise, and yellow. If anything can shake up the cult of dip-dyeing, this just might be it.
As previously noted, skirting the masculine/feminine divide was the lasting beauty impression at the Fall shows, with big, bushy brows and even makeshift sideburns turning up from New York to Paris. The trend was realized most visibly (and readily) through ubiquitous quiffs—free-flowing top sections of hair that were spiked up and combed back over slicked-back sides, and twisted-up back sections at shows like Rochas and Dolce & Gabbana. Runway only? Not hardly. Magazines are rushing to embrace the look, too, and this month alone we’ve spotted the backstage style made popular by Wella global creative director Eugene Souleiman, Redken creative consultant Guido Palau, and coiffing star Luke Hersheson on Laura Blokhina in Elle Denmark and on Kim Noorda in Vogue Taiwan. While Blokhina’s hair is already quite short, which made creating variance between voluminous and flat planes a relatively simple endeavor, hairstylist Marie Thomsen had her work cut out for her with Noorda’s mid-back-grazing strands. When working with longer locks, it’s essential to create a sharp part to separate the sides from the top and press generous amounts of styling wax, like Redken’s Structure Wax 17, into hair before fastening your twist in the back. Think of it like sporting 2009′s side-shave without the permanence of actually applying razor to scalp. What do you think of these gender-bending styles?
In the latest issue of Vogue Italia, Amber Valletta grapples with the modeling establishment’s current dilemma and a question that has divided mankind since the dawn of peroxide: blonde or brunette? Both, we’d argue, considering how well the nineties super is pulling them off. In an interesting bit of foreshadowing, Ms. Valletta swaps Spring’s seventies-inspired, middle-parted strands and big frizzy manes in favor of Fall’s nod to the sixties, sporting in one photo an icy, voluminous, Hitchcockian set, and in the other a raven-hued architectural motif preferred by Vidal Sassoon and his cohorts. The styling magic on display was made possible by the teamwork of Eugene Souleiman for Wella Professionals and colorist Josh Wood, the latter of whom wowed us at Jean Paul Gaultier, where his mastery of the gray scale made Guido Palau’s bourgeois beehives that much more of a spectacle. Requisite, decade-appropriate eyeliner and lots and lots of lashes courtesy of Chanel’s Peter Philips also abound in these Amber pics. So, what say you: Does platinum prevail, or have you fallen victim to the dark arts?
More often than not this season, we have heard the words “She’s a strong woman” uttered backstage by hair and makeup pros to explain beauty looks from New York to Paris. To wit, Fall’s full, boyish brow has been everywhere, often complemented by contoured cheeks and sleek, barbershop coifs to complete the vision of a girl who embodies beauty because of her disregard for its conventions. And so it went at Kenzo, where makeup artist Tom Pecheux had two specific defiant muses in mind, Frida Kahlo and Georgia O’Keeffe. “Not so much their work, but the kind of women they are—powerful with a strong mind but at the same time sophisticated,” Pecheux explained, making a point to disregard the obvious references. (“We’re not doing unibrows,” he quipped.) He was, however, applying pigment and powders “not like makeup, but like an emotion.” Translation: blending everything with fingers instead of brushes, for a smudged, lived-in effect that included a wash of MAC Cream Colour Base in Khaki on lids and below the lower lash line and its Eye Pencil in Taupe, drawn in between individual lashes for definition without the use of mascara. Mouths were covered with MAC Lip Pencil in Bordeaux Line, a dark berry, which was jostled to blur any lines. “A perfect purple lip would translate with too much attitude,” Pecheux explained. “Here, it’s more about inner beauty.”
Wella global creative director Eugene Souleiman added Hailee Steinfeld to the inspirational mix. “They’re Amish/True Grit braids,” he said of the “ornate and arid” plaits he was creating from slicked-back sides, crossing one over the other and sewing (yes, sewing) them together below the napes of models’ necks before fastening them into a fluid loop with more needle-and-twine action. “I wanted to mix Frida Kahlo with Diego Rivera,” Souleiman said of the overall style, which included a mannish quiff above the hairline that was prepped with Wella Ocean Spritz for a matte texture and left hanging toward the back in a long tuft. For a finishing touch, a few girls had flower bouquets woven through their hair.
As models lined up for their first looks, we couldn’t help but notice that they all bore a striking resemblance to Arizona Muse, whose bushy arches and chiseled, androgynous features may as well have inspired the look. Muse didn’t need any help from pencils or powders, though, of course. ” I do them myself,” she revealed of her well-groomed brows, removing her headphones to chat. (On her iPod: Florence and the Machine’s Lungs.) The runway star did reveal that she too has struggled with over-plucking at one point in her life. “I recently saw a picture of myself when I was 14. It was awful!” She currently only plucks to clean up strays. Let that be lesson to the tweezer-happy among you.