August 22 2014

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9 posts tagged "Yadim"

High-Strung Brows, Backstage at Haider Ackermann


haider-ackermann“Simplistically complicated” was the oxymoron Eugene Souleiman used to describe the sleek, sculptural heads at Haider Ackermann. “We’re looking at hair as a medium and a fabric, not a hairstyle.” A wig wrap was crafted before a black cap was slipped over top. Next, three black hair bands were interspersed with three ultrasmooth hair extensions glued on from various directions. The end result—”Constantin Brancusi meets Greta Garbo”—wasn’t necessarily where Souleiman started. “I’ve done four fittings for this show. When the collection changes, I change—and I changed at two this morning,” he explained just a few hours later, coffee in hand.

“Everything in this collection is quite big and can be interpreted as slightly heavy, and I don’t want the beauty to feel that way.” This was the brief face painter Yadim received from Ackermann. The ultimate solution: “brows that feel as if they are being lifted by tape.” The makeup artist borrowed bolts of taupe and black elastic string from Souleiman to craft quite expressive arches. It was one of the first elements he noticed upon looking at reference pictures of “eccentric society women somewhere in the realm of Diana Vreeland” with the designer. “They all had these smug brows,” he noted. “Cold” skin served as the backdrop for this defining feature, which involved taking both lighter and darker complexions to extremes. “Haider was obsessed with the girls looking pale,” he noted, which was done using MAC Face and Body Foundation in 1 and 2. On the flip side, girls with darker skin tones had their complexions deepened with Studio Finish Skin Corrector in a chocolate shade tinged with blue—similar to “Alek Wek shot by Herb Ritts in the nineties, or Grace Jones.”


Golden Girls Go Boho, Backstage at Emilio Pucci



“Peter doesn’t like makeup.” It’s a tale we’ve heard before of the artistic director. This season, however, he wanted to “do something fun,” noted makeup artist Yadim. Pulling inspiration from the brocade (Look 43) and beaded pieces in the collection, he crafted a “modern-day Veruschka,” using a gold powder that he wet before gilding the forehead of ten select girls. “That’s where that desert warrior woman comes in,” he said of the metallic treatment. The majority of models were kept rather natural in comparison: MAC Cream Colour Base in Pearl was tapped onto the high planes of the face, a taupe shade was used to gently contour, and a beige shadow was washed across the lids and blended up into the brows before a shimmery brown lipstick was layered on top for shine. To provide definition, a black pencil was drawn along the water line, but not smudged. “This is very precise and strict,” the pro emphasized. Lashes were left bare and cheeks were flushed with Ladyblush, a cream formula, to help the girls “look alive.”

Dundas may have proposed a pony, but for mane master Luigi Murenu your standard tail simply wouldn’t do. To lend a “rock ‘n’ roll” vibe that still felt romantic, he worked Kérastase Mousse Bouffante through strands before blow-drying, then wrapped hair loosely around a one-inch curling iron, leaving the ends out. After the texture was in place, he divided the length into three sections and made a short, low plait. “One, two, and done,” he said, crossing the pieces over one another before tying it off with a band. “There are a lot of collars [in the collection], and this can be tucked inside,” he explained, pointing to the barely-there braid. With Eva Herzigova waiting for him at his station, he succinctly summed up the “strong identity” of the Emilio Pucci woman for Fall 2014: “She’s got a chic bohemian feeling, but she’s no hippie.” That much we know for sure.

Photo: Sonny Vandevelde;

Journey to Tibet, Backstage at Bibhu Mohapatra


bibhu-cropPaying homage to the ancient Tibetan world where men wore one braid and women wore two, hair pro Amit Abraham crafted a three-dimensional, plaited chignon. To keep the style sleek and modern, he prepped strands with L’Oréal Professionnel Volumetry Root Spray before blow-drying them smooth. Infinium 3 Hairspray was then misted close to the scalp, providing the same hold and strength as a spray gel, he explained. Using a rat-tail comb, Abraham made three ponytails, anchoring them near the occipital bone before crafting a “box braid,” which he coiled and pinned in place.

The exotic eye by Yadim was pulled directly from the rich fabrics and textures in the collection. He based lids with a burgundy cream shadow before rimming the lower lashes with an emerald hue. Gold was dabbed on the inner corners to catch the light. The final look mimicked the colorful tapestry of images pinned to the designer’s mood board for Fall 2014.

Photo: Courtesy of L’Oréal Professionnel

Arch Madness


Remember last month, when we were extolling the virtues of the Diorshow Art Pen that Pat McGrath used to create those painfully perfect cat-eyes backstage at Raf Simons’ Spring Couture show? Turns out, it’s more versatile than previously thought. Behold, makeup artist Yadim’s impressive wielding of the tiny tool, which provided French stunner Marie Piovesan with some seriously avant-garde arches in next month’s issue of Interview Germany—a friendly reminder that it’s called makeup artistry for a reason.

Photo: Ben Hassett Interview Germany, May 2013

Yadim’s Holiday Makeup Three-Fer


For makeup artist Yadim (no last name needed), there’s nothing worse than lack of imagination or fear of experimentation. A longtime student of Pat McGrath’s backstage beauty school, Yadim has been making waves in the makeup world on his own over the past few seasons with his avant-garde, anything-but-ordinary beauty mantra. He’s applied gold sequins to Tao Okamoto for Vogue China, paid homage to fashion illustrator René Gruau for Dazed and Confused and gave Carol Lim and Humberto Leon’s model brigade “slightly rave, modern, and graphic” cat-eyes in a series of bright colors for the Spring Kenzo show in Paris.To put it bluntly, Yadim likes to take risks, which is likely what attracted the good folks at Christian Dior, who recently named the maverick its international makeup designer. Here, caught up with the artist to chat holiday looks that go beyond predictable red lips and black shadow—and will certainly make a statement at your next holiday party.

Look 1: Lash Out
“When I think of holiday and Christmas the usual look is a red lip and a subtle smoky eye. A way to make that look fresh is by adding a new element into what we already know, taking it to the next level. For me, that’s a lash. Playing with adornments and bejeweling the eye is a great holiday look, and it can be paired with a bold or nude lip. I love the new Swarovski-encrusted lashes in Dior’s Grand Bal collection. My advice for applying a fake lash—and even I have trouble sometimes—is to apply the adhesive to the faux lash and press it onto your eye. Then, remove it and wait a good 30 seconds until it’s tacky, then push it back on again. You’ll find it really stays. It’s also a good idea to have a mirror in front of you on a low table. That way you’re looking down so it’s easier to apply the lash.”

Look 2: Makeup in the Third Dimension
“I think three-dimensional makeup is something a lot of women are scared of, but they shouldn’t be! I don’t believe in rules, and I think the most important thing is to try new looks. The holidays are a good time to step outside of your comfort zone. The three-dimensional look in particular is something you can push during the festive season, just like my shoot with Tao [Okamoto]. You can buy Swarovski crystals or paillettes—or anything really—from a trimmings store, and apply them around your eyes. I like to use DUO; it’s actually what I apply fake lashes with. And if you don’t want to apply sparkly things to your face, you can put them on your nails. Another look I love is a golden nude face—try Make Up Forever Glitter in Sand Gold on the eyes—and a really bold pop of color on the nail with some trimmings attached.”

Look 3: Wet ‘n’ Wild
“Another look I think is beautiful for holiday is a really strong, smoky, shimmery eye, but with a wet, emollient finish. Using a pencil, line the inside waterline on your lower lashes and over your upper lash line. Apply it thick, and then use your finger—or a pencil if you prefer—to really smoke it out. Next, follow with a shadow such as Dior 5 Color Eye Shadow in Night Golds, and finish by layering with another metallic shadow, so the look is really strong. To make it really rock ‘n’ roll, dab some Aquaphor or lip gloss to the center of the eyelid. A lot of women are afraid of using an emollient on the eye because it creases, but that just makes it sexier.”

Photo: Lachlan Bailey for Vogue China, December 2012; Courtesy of Dior Beauty; Courtesy of Duo