6 posts tagged "Yadim"
Remember last month, when we were extolling the virtues of the Diorshow Art Pen that Pat McGrath used to create those painfully perfect cat-eyes backstage at Raf Simons’ Spring Couture show? Turns out, it’s more versatile than previously thought. Behold, makeup artist Yadim’s impressive wielding of the tiny tool, which provided French stunner Marie Piovesan with some seriously avant-garde arches in next month’s issue of Interview Germany—a friendly reminder that it’s called makeup artistry for a reason.
For makeup artist Yadim (no last name needed), there’s nothing worse than lack of imagination or fear of experimentation. A longtime student of Pat McGrath’s backstage beauty school, Yadim has been making waves in the makeup world on his own over the past few seasons with his avant-garde, anything-but-ordinary beauty mantra. He’s applied gold sequins to Tao Okamoto for Vogue China, paid homage to fashion illustrator René Gruau for Dazed and Confused and gave Carol Lim and Humberto Leon’s model brigade “slightly rave, modern, and graphic” cat-eyes in a series of bright colors for the Spring Kenzo show in Paris.To put it bluntly, Yadim likes to take risks, which is likely what attracted the good folks at Christian Dior, who recently named the maverick its international makeup designer. Here, Style.com caught up with the artist to chat holiday looks that go beyond predictable red lips and black shadow—and will certainly make a statement at your next holiday party.
Look 1: Lash Out
“When I think of holiday and Christmas the usual look is a red lip and a subtle smoky eye. A way to make that look fresh is by adding a new element into what we already know, taking it to the next level. For me, that’s a lash. Playing with adornments and bejeweling the eye is a great holiday look, and it can be paired with a bold or nude lip. I love the new Swarovski-encrusted lashes in Dior’s Grand Bal collection. My advice for applying a fake lash—and even I have trouble sometimes—is to apply the adhesive to the faux lash and press it onto your eye. Then, remove it and wait a good 30 seconds until it’s tacky, then push it back on again. You’ll find it really stays. It’s also a good idea to have a mirror in front of you on a low table. That way you’re looking down so it’s easier to apply the lash.”
Look 2: Makeup in the Third Dimension
“I think three-dimensional makeup is something a lot of women are scared of, but they shouldn’t be! I don’t believe in rules, and I think the most important thing is to try new looks. The holidays are a good time to step outside of your comfort zone. The three-dimensional look in particular is something you can push during the festive season, just like my shoot with Tao [Okamoto]. You can buy Swarovski crystals or paillettes—or anything really—from a trimmings store, and apply them around your eyes. I like to use DUO; it’s actually what I apply fake lashes with. And if you don’t want to apply sparkly things to your face, you can put them on your nails. Another look I love is a golden nude face—try Make Up Forever Glitter in Sand Gold on the eyes—and a really bold pop of color on the nail with some trimmings attached.”
Look 3: Wet ‘n’ Wild
“Another look I think is beautiful for holiday is a really strong, smoky, shimmery eye, but with a wet, emollient finish. Using a pencil, line the inside waterline on your lower lashes and over your upper lash line. Apply it thick, and then use your finger—or a pencil if you prefer—to really smoke it out. Next, follow with a shadow such as Dior 5 Color Eye Shadow in Night Golds, and finish by layering with another metallic shadow, so the look is really strong. To make it really rock ‘n’ roll, dab some Aquaphor or lip gloss to the center of the eyelid. A lot of women are afraid of using an emollient on the eye because it creases, but that just makes it sexier.”
Burgundy, bordeaux, oxblood, mulberry. Whatever you want to call it, the deep wine stain that made waves at Fall shows like Gucci, Bottega Veneta, Rochas, and Viktor & Rolf—and continues to dominate the red carpet (Kristen, Scarlett, Jessica; you know who you are)—is the lip color of the moment. Finding the right berry tone, however, can be just as difficult as, say, finding the perfect red. But as luck would have it, there are plenty of new options on the market for you to experiment with. Here, we’ve selected our five favorite bullets for studying up on the dark arts.
The Long-Lasting Love
NARS Pure Matte Lipstick in Amsterdam
Known for its arsenal of richly pigmented, brightly hued pout perfectors, Nars has a matte-as-can-be slim-line lipstick that does not disappoint. This berry tone has just enough red to work for both light and dark skin tones, and its stay-put finish never needs to be touched up.
The Deep End
Chanel Rouge Allure Velvet in L’Impatiente
The newest shade from Chanel’s much-lauded Rouge Allure Velvet collection is thinly pigmented so it goes on sheer and shine-free but can be layered for opacity. A combination of hydrating agents and antioxidants like green tea and sappon extracts leave lips supple while hydrating shea butter ensures easier wear.
The Leader of the Pack
Paul & Joe Lipstick in #306, Avenue Montaigne
Best known for its adorable packaging, Paul & Joe know a few things about color, too. Not only is this shade one of the most perfect brick red/purple hybrids we’ve ever come across, the France-based brand also offers the option of encasing it in a series of vintage-inspired lipstick cases. Simply choose your shade, and then decide which packaging pattern you prefer, from a 1930s-inspired green and cream option to floral and even kitten motifs.
The Glam Slam
Lancôme L’Absolu Rouge in Berry Noir
With so many advances in lipstick formulas, your bullet should do more than provide a wash of color. Lancôme’s newest formula, L’Absolu Rouge, is infused with Pro-Xylane (a moisture-rich cell booster), vitamin E, and SPF 12, all of which work to moisturize and protect lips with a dark red-plum color that is more glam, less goth.
The On-Set Stunner
Dior Addict Extreme in Black Tie
We were obsessed with the color Dior’s international makeup designer, Yadim swiped on model Kendra Spears for a burgundy-themed shoot in November’s Paris Vogue—and were equally ecstatic when we discovered the exact shade he used. That’d be Dior’s latest Addict Extreme, a thick waxy formula that is heavy on the color, and provides a sexy wet look upon impact.
The beauty establishment’s obsession with 3-D makeup has eased up a bit since the Spring 2012 shows, when everything from sequins and crystals to precise paper cutouts were glued onto models’ lids to create a textural take on more classic modes of liner and shadow. But face accoutrements are a time-honored tradition that still rear their reflective heads every now and again, their latest cameo coming via next month’s Vogue China. Yadim, the rising star who has become Carol Lim and Humberto Leon’s trusted makeup artist backstage at Kenzo, gave Tao Okamoto the paillette treatment in the latest issue of the glossy, using different-sized gold circles to trace a beautiful design around Okamoto’s eyes, down her nose bridge, and across her forehead. There’s something very Givenchy Couture Fall 2009 about it, although the matte ruby lipstick and garnet nails, courtesy of Elisa Ferri (Marc’s favorite manicurist), add a hint of holiday wearability to the whole thing. Thanksgiving dinner appropriate, it is not; but don’t rule it out if you’re in the market for a showstopping New Year’s Eve look.
Backstage at Kenzo, the evidence of Carol Lim and Humberto Leon’s already impactful influence on the house they took over two seasons ago was visible everywhere. We’d say, and this is a conservative estimate, that 30 percent of the production crew, hair and makeup artists, publicists, and catwalkers assembled there were wearing one of the design duo’s gotta-have-it logo sweatshirts or sweaters from Fall, with or without tiger head. They had an equally exciting lineup hung on racks for Spring, which had a bright, fun beauty look to match. “They wanted the girls to really have a progression,” said makeup artist Yadim, who explained that the models were meant to seem as though they had walked into the jungle and then got consumed by it.
This necessitated not one but six different eye liner looks. “It’s slightly rave, modern and graphic,” Yadim continued of the thick etching of MAC Chromaline in taupe, black, forest green, yellow, orange, and bright green that he traced around models’ lids, drawing it to a point in the inner corner of the eye and leaving a small gap in the otherwise fluid shape in the center of lower lash lines “for a surprise.” Marian Newman painted nails with a corresponding four-polish palette of MAC Nail Lacquers in a bright mandarin, a glossy taupe, a deep nude, and a rich emerald, for an added touch of color, although the eyes were still the focus. To make them stand out even more, Yadim kept upper and lower lashes heavy and clumpy with MAC Haute & Naughty mascara while taking down lips, beefing up brows, and giving cheeks a slight contour with MAC Blush in Taupe. “I’m also using lots of highlighter,” he emphasized of the concentrated brushstrokes of its Cream Colour Base in Pearl that he swept across cheekbones, along the brow ridge, down the bridge of the nose, and onto the Cupid’s bow of mouths, pulling Sui He over to illustrate how her skin glowed with a luminescent dewiness (and it did).
“She’s had a bit of a fumble in the jungle,” Anthony Turner elaborated of the idea, dousing hair with TIGI Catwalk Session Series Salt Spray as a rousing rendition of “Happy Birthday” broke out for Magda Laguinge. Letting strands air-dry to create a piece-y texture, the hairstylist explained that the thesis here hasn’t changed; his objective is still to “bring New York to Paris” with a cool, young feel that has an air of effortlessness to it—and a little something extra. “I’m going to rough them up a bit before they hit the runway,” Turner promised.