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August 31 2014

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3 posts tagged "Yohji Yamamoto"

Yohji Yamamoto and Dries Van Noten Are Goin’ Streaking

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menswear

The man bun and serious scruff have made regular appearances on the red carpet in the past few days—usually working in tandem. Jared Leto sported the combo, as did Joaquin Phoenix, while Alex Ebert paired his scraggly beard with an equally unkempt updo. The Fall 2014 menswear runways seem to be following suit, with facial hair showing up on the catwalk at Etro and the lookbook for Belstaff. Yohji Yamamoto, on the other hand, has brought us an entirely new grooming trend for guys who are daring enough to dabble in color. Punky streaks of white, black, cobalt, red, yellow, and orange were splashed throughout strands that ranged from long to short—even distinguished gentlemen of a certain age got the Technicolor treatment. Dries Van Noten, taking cues from his Spring 2014 women’s show, also brightened up his boys, adding bands of what appeared to be paint near or along models’ parts. To the men who are reading, let me give you a few words of advice: These masculine, My Little Pony-like touches (bet you never thought you’d read those words together in the same sentence) are guaranteed to catch a woman’s eye—likely because she’ll want to know where you got it done. But hey, it’s a hell of a lot better than a lame pickup line.

Photo: Photo: Monica Feudi / Feudiguaineri.com; Yannis Vlamos / Indigitalimages.com

Cut, Copy

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For those of you wondering if the Spring sentiment that sent models to the salon in droves in search of bobs and bowl cuts would return for Fall, the answer appears to be yes. As the shows officially come to an end today, with yet another wig moment at Louis Vuitton, we can confirm that designers are still very much feeling compelling crops. So can Guido Palau. “A lot of people want to see short hair this season,” Palau said backstage at Jean Paul Gaultier, where he was busy trimming “patchwork,” clipped-on-top mullets—a request that he, personally, has been fulfilling with frequency.

It all started at Dior Couture, where the Redken creative consultant gave every girl a convincing pixie cut. Then Palau honed his wig-shaping skills at Marc Jacobs, fashioning an army of Edie Campbells, the Brit It girl he gave a black dye job and a Joan Jett shag for an editorial months earlier. But it didn’t stop there. Sam McKnight picked up the torch at Clements Ribeiro in London, fashioning veritable faux-hawks, a style he reproduced at Fendi in Milan with tight braids accessorized with fox-fur hair pieces a few days later. Next up was Eugene Souleiman’s Rei Kawakubo tribute at Yohji Yamamoto, for which he replicated the Comme des Garçons designer’s architectural black bob, and the stunning pin curls Luigi Murenu designed for Riccardo Tisci’s breathtaking Givenchy collection. Then Karl Lagerfeld got in on the act at Chanel, ordering up colored, similarly graphic hats that sat on top of McKnight’s “done but not done” center-parted strands, thus creating a deceptively short silhouette on top of a long one. This morning, Palau brought it full circle, giving every one of Jacobs’ Louis Vuitton models—Kate Moss included—a “fifties, sort of French Left Bank” bob that was heavy on the mousse for an out-all-night effect.

The season’s overarching punk undertones may have had something to do with the wealth of conceptual cuts that made it onto the runway; nothing captures the subculture’s DIY attitude quite like lopping off excessive length. Suffice it to say, if you’ve ever considered parting ways with your long locks, now would be a great time to do it.

Photo: Gorunway.com

Yohji’s Makeshift Manicure

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Today marks the end of a whirlwind fashion month—and a Paris fashion week that was truly one for the ages (Givenchy! Balenciaga! Dior! Saint Laurent! Céline!). In an effort to process the good, the great, and the astounding things we’ve seen over the past nine days in the City of Light, we’ve been scrolling through pictures from some of our favorite shows and wanted to make sure you didn’t miss these. (Never forget we’ve got your best interest in mind, dear readers). Yohji Yamamoto’s Fall collection presentation this weekend was a standout because of the impressive tailoring and draping that went into his offering of all-black favorites—as well as the surprising pops of color that showed up toward the end of the show, including the bright red and cobalt-blue ensemble in Look 33. Those colors were also reprised on black leather gloves, in the form of square-shaped press-on nails—an interesting choice, considering both hues also happen to adorn two of the four rereleased fragrance flacons from Yamamoto’s cult-favorite perfume line that was just presented in Paris and will be resurrected this Spring (more on that soon). If these super-inventive accessories actually get produced, and any one of our intimate acquaintances happens to be reading this (and looking for a gift for us come fall), a pair of these would be more than welcome.

Photo: Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images