41 posts tagged "Yves Saint Laurent"
Ethereal pastels and nude makeup typically rear their soft-hued heads this time of year, but a few bold additions to the seasonal color palette are emerging as surprise standouts for spring. Coral, tangerine, and shades of orange are at the top of this list, with backstage looks from shows like Viktor & Rolf and Rodarte serving up some inspiration. The color is a tricky one to wear well and can easily verge into Ft. Lauderdale retiree or “experimental” adolescent territory. But when done right, it adds a fresh brightness to eyes, cheeks, and lips that pale pinks and earthy beiges simply cannot muster. As per usual, Yves Saint Laurent’s new color collection is totally on point, featuring a Fard à Lèvres Rouge Pur Pure Lipstick in Silky Apricot (on Coco above), a Gloss Pur Pure Lip Gloss in Pure Coral, and a Nail Touch Nail Lacquer Pen in Coral Touch, which has the same click mechanism as their Touche Éclat highlighters but delivers glossy varnish to nails instead. Feel free to match lips and nails, but we’re of the mind that subtlety everywhere else—like a sheer gloss on eyes and a few coats of brown mascara—make the look even stronger.
Master perfumer Francis Kurkdjian has had a hand in pretty much every fragrance success story in the last 15 years. The go-to nose for the houses of Dior, Gaultier, Versace, and Saint Laurent—not to mention the mastermind behind Narciso Rodriguez’s eponymous best-sellers and Acqua di Parma’s classic Iris Nobile—he’s something of an industry giant, the man behind the scents that reliably intrigue you. In 2009, he plans on stepping out of the shadows by opening his own fragrance house. Situated in Paris (naturellement), his solo venture will not mark the launch of a signature brand, Kurkdjian insists, but will rather embrace inspirational fragrance stories, all price ranges, and different mediums for scent. Possible expansions may include an excellent-smelling detergent—the continuation of a cleaning-products line he created earlier in his career. He has plans to go international, too, which is exciting news for Americans who are just plain over Tide original scent—and unimpressed with the Clean Breeze alternative.
Designers typically love expanding into beauty because it makes them that much more accessible to their fans. Said fans in turn applaud these ventures for the same reasons, insofar as buying a ready-to-wear lipstick is way easier to rationalize than, say, a runway dress. Fashioned after the iconic women’s tuxedo that Yves Saint Laurent created for his 1966 Spring couture show, the new Le Smoking Collector Powder for the Eyes is a “must-own” item for any devotee of the brand. The eye shadow trio features an opaque black that outlines eyes and creates a halo effect on lids when blended with the metallic gray shade, and a Champagne color that complements the two for accents of light where needed. At $60, the online exclusive is a no-brainer purchase. Actually dipping into its pristine, laser-cut design might take a little more thought.
Seeing as how it’s one of the most coveted French brands (if not the most coveted of them) to ever grace us with choice fashion and beauty lines (simmer down, Chanel lovers, to each her own), it’s completely fitting that Yves Saint Laurent would try to recreate the French manicure, with what the company is calling “contemporary sophistication.” Gone are the days of sheer pink and white tips. Brace yourself for—wait for it—Deep Blue and Moonlight White! As part of its holiday Bow Collection, the two new shades of the brand’s La Laque polishes should be rolling out to stores any day now, and are meant to be worn together (white on bottom, navy on top). Sure, you could wear them alone or switch up the order, but why would you go against a style mandate passed down from higher-ups of this caliber? It’d be blasphemous, really.
Photo: Courtesy of Yves Saint Laurent
When black lipstick-clad models walked down YSL’s Fall runway last February, the fashion and beauty pack took momentary pause. Initial sentiments of “goth? really?” were quickly followed by “what is that lipstick and when/where can I buy it?!” Opaque pigments and sheer glosses in varying shades of the macabre went into production shortly thereafter, echoing the somber mood and tone of our economy. According to makeup artist Alex Box, however, stylemakers’ collective re-embrace of all things soul-torturing have nothing to do with the dismal dollar. “People want to explore their alter egos a little bit more, right now. They’re going darker, and they want a little goth back in their life,” she surmises. For the seasoned face-painter (Box is responsible for translating Gareth Pugh’s architectural runway vision into makeup form), there was a hole in the market that needed filling. And fill it she has, as the artistic director of the new, unisex makeup line Illamasqua . Box and her co-conspirators (including one Dave Vanian from the Damned ) are bringing the moody blues back in a full spectrum of high-quality colors for both men and women, with four collections available exclusively at Selfridges in London. Style.com caught up with Box to talk about lip gloss as black as tar and how she has managed to skirt the line between daywear and clown makeup.
How did the whole idea for Illamasqua start?
I did an interview in the Guardian about how I was this symbol for a new combination of goth and glamour. Simultaneously, Julian [Kynaston, of the advertising and branding company Propaganda] wanted to design a makeup range that had a story, that had a life to it, that could attract the counterculture from rockabillies to punks to burlesque. His wife randomly saw the interview and he contacted me and that was it.
What has the transition been like for you going from makeup artist to artistic director?
It’s like Charlie and the Chocolate Factory. I want green nail polish and they make it! My whole life I’ve wanted to celebrate individuality, and that’s reflected in the line. There are no boundaries with the makeup. You can use the lip products on your body, the eye products on your lips. If you give people boundaries, they stay within them; if you don’t, they have more freedom.
How would you say you’ve exercised this freedom, by which I mean what are the most unique products in the line?
I absolutely love our white liquid foundation. It’s a very sheer, lightweight white so you can look porcelain, not like a clown. We actually have four shades of white—I mean, we’re really going for it. We also have a black lip gloss that’s so thick it’s like tar.
Do you think there’s really a market for people who want to put tar on their lips?
If you present something to somebody, they’re going to try it. But if it doesn’t exist, they can’t try it. For example, I’ve never seen a green lip gloss. You’ve got to make something that’s not on the market or else you’re gonna shoot yourself in the foot. We just let our imaginations run wild.
How did Dave Vanian get involved?
Julian is a very big fan of the Damned and so am I. Dave is an innovator and was one of the first punk stars to wear makeup. He’s a great adviser on style as he’s incredibly in tune with creating a look—he was the first goth, really. He will just come in and sit with me and talk about life—when life crosses with art and when art crosses with fashion. And it’s great to have someone who is a sounding board like that.
What about the unisex factor? Do you see men’s makeup becoming increasingly popular anytime soon?
I do, but I think that the way that it’s currently marketed is so patronizing. The young guys now are so much more open to this kind of image—they don’t feel as strongly as older people about having a stereotypical male look. So they’re more open to swapping clothes with girls. And a lot of them are more interested in making a statement than making themselves look desirable.