15 posts tagged "Zac Posen"
We’ve already talked at length about eye shadow’s dominance on the Fall runways, but after seeing some interesting liner work at Jean Paul Gaultier on Saturday, we thought we’d take a minute to ruminate on pencils and liquid fine-point pens. While cat-eyes in varying thicknesses have shown up at many shows, we were dealing with something else entirely at Gaultier. “[His] collection was influenced by the world traveler,” Guido Palau mentioned backstage, where his job was made easy by a slew of hats and turbans, leaving only four girls with visible undone side ponytails to work with. That meant all impact had to come from the face, which was left in the hands of makeup artist extraordinaire Stéphane Marais. Marais chose to express this general globe-trotting aesthetic with a geometric eye, composed of a bleached brow and blended strokes of black eye kohl. The first thing we thought when we saw the look wasn’t so much international wanderer as Zac Posen. Although cleaner and more structured, the design reminded us of the “trashy with dignity” peepers Marais cooked up for Posen last month in New York, using short, deliberately smudged black dashes to create his desired effect. Who says eyeliner should be confined to the lash line, anyway?
Zac Posen shifted his attention from red-carpet gowns to easy-wearing, up-all-night party pieces yesterday at the Altman building, and he instructed his makeup and hair teams to follow suit. For face-painting phenom Stéphane Marais, the new direction conjured images of young women who are trendy and chic. “She’s modern, but her makeup isn’t perfect because then she looks too bourgeois—I wanted it to be elegant and fierce,” he said. In makeup terms, this translated to smudged black eyeliner, which we’ve been seeing a lot of for Fall (an homage to an undone look popularized by Kate Moss, whose hard-partying beauty secrets have been inspiring backstage looks all week). Marais’ version was heavy on itinerant dashes of onyx pigment that he blended with his finger for a “melted” effect. “Trashy with dignity,” he called his handiwork, which included a transparent red lip stain blocked out with concealer on most of the lip line so that the color only popped in the center. Hairstylist Odile Gilbert’s loose, middle-parted waves were a bit more soft and structured, which added the class factor here to properly appeal to the uptown-minded downtown set that Posen usually caters to.
While meandering around the Altman Building this morning, perusing the backstage beauty look at Zac Posen, we got to talking with nail guru Deborah Lippmann. On hand to paint models’ nails and toes with My Romance, a pretty pink from her eponymous collection, she used the cameo to showcase her new Summer collection, which includes a bright-red jelly polish that we were immediately drawn to. “I made that one for Dree Hemingway,” Lippman said of the lacquer she named “Supermodel.” “A lot of my celebrity clients ask for colors,” Lippmann went on, explaining that that kind of immortalization needs to “happen organically.” In this case, the collaboration occurred when the manicurist and the model were on a shoot together with editorial coiffing mega-star Christiaan, who happens to love the very same sheer red varnish. Look out for this one when it launches in May.
A newfound love for Manic Panic may not have made it to the Europe shows, but brow-bleaching—in all of its weird, futuristic glory—has been the rage from Milan to Paris. Despite the fact that Chanel Iman recently came out on behalf of the long-legged-model set to say that walking sans brows makes her feel like she’s “from another planet,” designers continue to instruct their backstage teams with the same four words: Blank out those brows. Aaron De Mey is the latest makeup artist to employ the technique, sending nothing but forehead out onto the Givenchy runway yesterday. But De Mey added a touch of voluptuousness to the otherwise androgynous look by employing a simple lip-plumping technique that doesn’t require tingling serums or vials of collagen. He used a brown liner to lightly trace the outer corners of models’ lips, adding a touch of caramel color to the centers to give the illusion of fuller pouts. We saw Stéphane Marais do something similar at Zac Posen, with a gray liner and pink gloss. It’s an easy way to retain a touch of femininity (and humanity)—you know, if you decide to erase your arches for spring.
I was never the hardcore teenage type. I veered more toward the preppy/jocky end of the middle school social continuum, so face piercings and severe black eyeliner never entered into the equation. I did, however, have a brief Manic Panic phase, in which I added an eggplant purple streak to my dark brown hair—the scandal! As colored hair accents come back into vogue (thanks, Lady Gaga), I may have to consider a round two—especially after seeing two very different interpretations of the look backstage yesterday. “Sometimes, you just have to see life in color,” Odile Gilbert said at Zac Posen, where she was twisting neon pink and green extensions into models’ hair, putting them into high ponytails, and then pinning them down into chignons. Over at Thakoon, it was a little less vibrant, but the idea of creating contrast with pops of color still resonated. Wella Professionals color spokesperson Eva Scrivo fashioned a series of extensions with pewter, platinum, and rose Champagne hues, and stylist Eugene Souleiman used them to create a looped half-up, half-down style that put a modern spin on a classic look. “It’s Seven Samurai meets beach warrior,” Scrivo suggested. “It still looks sophisticated, not dated and punk.” Not that there’s anything wrong with punk.