Margiela’s Olfactory Time Capsules
There is a distinctive chill in the air every morning that signals that summer is slipping away and school, layering, and latte specials like pumpkin spice are upon us. While I wish I could dig my proverbial heels in and hang on to the steamy nights and my beloved K. Jacques sandals, I know it’s high time to slip into literal stilettos and leather boots as fall rapidly approaches. However, I’ll be keeping Maison Martin Margiela’s trio of Replica fragrances that launched this month—Flower Market, Beach Walk, and Funfair Evening—close at hand to remind me of the warm weather. Based on the label’s Replica fashion line (a capsule collection inspired by vintage clothing and accessories from around the globe), these distinctive scents are meant to capture moments in time.
Each bottle boasts a fabric label similar to the one sewn into each piece in the Replica clothing collection. The tag explains the scent’s origin, provenance, and period, along with a description of the notes and which gender should wear it (in the case of all three, it’s female). While each eau is meant to embody an olfactory memory that resonates with everyone, perfumer Jacques Cavallier says he wanted to lend something new and unique to each fragrance. “I don’t like the notion of nostalgia. I prefer the idea of rediscovering those scents that have become part of us all,” he adds.
Flower Market is a “bouquet of textures,” explains Cavallier, who along with fellow nose Marie Salamagne used notes of freesia, rose, Sambac jasmine, and tuberose to evoke a Parisian marché aux fleurs (i.e., dewy petals, freshly cut blooms, and crushed leaves on the floor). While one might expect Beach Walk to smell of Coppertone and saltwater, a delicate blend of bergamot, lemon, pink pepper, and ylang ylang embodies a stroll along a sandy shore. The sophisticated composition of Funfair Evening—a combo of apple, star anise, marshmallow accord, and warm amber—is reminiscent of an amusement park (in this case, one in Santa Monica) and its sweet, cotton candy-laced air. In other words, no matter which scent you choose, a spritz or two will instantly transport you to summertime, when the livin’s easy—even during the nonstop hustle and bustle of New York fashion week.
$110 each; available at Margiela boutiques.—Amber Kallor
Photo: Courtesy of Maison Martin Margiela