At YSL, The Purple Lip That Never Was
It was stunning. “You’ve really outdone yourself,” we effused of Pat McGrath’s ultraviolet lip when we saw the face painter backstage at Yves Saint Laurent. The pout was so perfectly applied and so utterly vivid, we even brought it up at dinner, calling it one of our favorite looks of the season. But it sadly never saw the light of the runway, as anyone who made it past the highly patrolled entrance at the Hôtel Salomon de Rothschild and inside the venue is well aware. In its place was a nude moisturized mouth. So, what happened? “The moment you saw it with all the different hair colors, you knew,” McGrath told us when we happened upon her later, explaining that the original makeup test done on Kinga Rajzak included a head wrap, thus leaving the question of whether purple would work when paired with blondes, brunettes, and redheads unanswered (it didn’t). We’ll admit that what remained of McGrath’s original look—the paled-out skin, the taupe-y eye, and the filled-in brows—registered better on their own; a graphic statement lip would have come across as theatrical and out of place with Stefano Pilati’s controlled Fall collection. But trust us, dear readers, when we tell you that in matters of makeup artistry, it was truly something to behold.
As for Guido Palau’s side-swept, “little boy” knots, they stayed in the picture from beginning to end. “It’s almost Twiggy-feeling,” the hairstylist said of the extra-deep parts prepped with Redken Velvet Gelatine 07 Cushioning Blow Dry Gel and sprayed for hold with its Forceful 23 Hairspray. The masculine bit came in the form of sideburns, which Palau razor-trimmed on site from wisps above model’s ears, molding with an added bit of hair spray. “It doesn’t always have to be a huge statement,” Palau surmised of the simple coif—a commentary that was particularly apropos to the makeup miscalculation. “It’s the little things that give the big kind of chicness.”
Photo: Marcus Tondo / GoRunway.com; Luca Cannonieri / GoRunway.com