Blush, Brows, And Björk Backstage at ODLR
The first thing you noticed about the Oscar de la Renta girl for Fall was her penchant for towering fur hats. The second? A proclivity for blush. “I wanted you to really feel it—like it’s authentic,” Revlon global artistic director Gucci Westman said of the brand’s ColorBurst Lipsticks in Fuchsia and Candy Pink that she blended into a “big apple” on models’ cheeks. Westman added a “subtle, greasy” smoky eye to the equation, courtesy of Revlon’s ColorStay Liquid Liner in Blackest Black rimmed around the lids and diffused outward with a wash of the gray pigment from its ColorStay 12 Hour Eyeshadow Quad in Silver Fox. Next came a finger-dabbing of the wine stain in Westman’s forthcoming Multi-Use Palette in Bordeaux in the Snow and a very strong brow, drawn onto arches with Revlon’s Brow Fantasy in Dark Brown and blended using an angled brush. “Constantinople/Tibetan” were the general reference points Westman gleaned from de la Renta’s collection, although she really had Björk on the brain when she decided to go big with the blush and brows—Björk circa 1994, to be exact, when the raven-haired Icelandic beauty took to the Jean Paul Gautier Fall runway wearing a similar look.
Hairstylist Orlando Pita added “Mongolian” to the inspirational mix, fashioning a middle part and crafting big, soft waves by prepping strands with his T3 Elevate Heat-Seeking Volumizer and setting them in large rollers before brushing them through—an unusual sight at a de la Renta show, where Pita is typically more inclined to go with a classic updo. “We had to control it in the front,” the coiffing star said of the style, which needed to comfortably anchor the designer’s myriad fox toppers. Pita also pointed out that the free-flowing style, while uncharacteristic, remained in de la Renta’s comfort zone; it was “a bit younger” than he typically requests but undeniably luxurious. Ditto manicurist Yuna Park’s deep berry nails, which she painted with precision using Deborah Lippmann’s Just Walk Away Renee lacquer.—Celia Ellenberg
Photo: Luca Cannonieri / GoRunway.com