The Sixties Go Dutch Backstage At Jil Sander
Seeing as how the Spring beauty look at Jil Sander was one of our hands-down favorites, we were not so patiently waiting to see how face painter Peter Philips and coiffing star Guido Palau would follow up those bright neon pouts and sleek, side-parted chignons. This weekend, we finally got our answer, that being equally strong hair and makeup to lust after. A mention of Dutch master Kees van Dongen mixed with magazine tears of “sporty” ladies from the 1950′s and sixties is how designer Raf Simons directed his glam squad, which manifested itself into an incredibly bold bold red lip that Philips painted on top of perfectly porcelain skin with Chanel Rouge Allure Lipstick in Enthusiast. Van Dongen’s vivid color palette also inspired Philips to scrawl a blue/green cat-eye across models’ upper lash lines with a stroke of Chanel’s Stylo Yeux Eye Pencil in Jade.
As for Palau’s handiwork, he borrowed from the sixties as well, a decade that is popping up with increasing frequency in Milan. “The clothes almost look futuristic, so sixties-era hair is a great complement,” Palau said, prepping strands with Redken Hardwear 16 Super Strong sculpting gel and its Forceful 23 Super Strength finishing spray before “swirling” sections in a circular motion over a braided, chignon base. The shape was reminiscent of a wig wrap, which students of Palau’s earlier work this season will recognize from the stocking cap/headband look he concocted at Victoria Beckham. “It was a very feminine and liberating time,” Palau pointed out of the era that, ironically, still managed to yield a style this strict and precise. But it’s the freedom to choose something with such exacting limitations that is ultimately so liberating, no?
Photo: Courtesy of Jil Sander