Blue Is The New Black
Two weeks into the Spring shows, and there are two dominant decades from which designers seem to be culling inspiration, which has had a sweeping impact on backstage beauty looks as well. While New York’s collective homage to nineties minimalism gave us the simple, no-makeup makeup that threatened to cast a “contours, not colors” spell over the season when things first got under way earlier in the month, an undercurrent of support for the sixties has meant a renewed focus on last season’s eyeliner love, which has been reimagined with a surprising pigment preference: blue. It has come in bright shades of aqua at shows like Clements Ribeiro, where makeup artist Cassie Lomas channeled the “innocent beauty” of Wes Anderson’s Moonrise Kingdom with a slick of Bourjois Metallise Eyeliner Pencil in Bleu Clinqiant, and Moschino Cheap And Chic, where Hannah Murray gave psychedelia an “urban kick” by etching MAC Pro’s Ultra Chromagraphic Pencil in Marine beneath the lower lash line. “[ Michael Kors] just wanted to do an eye thing,” Dick Page explained of his similarly hued “floating lines” at the designer’s show, which he drew in a banana shape through the crease. Predictable shades of black got more competition from midnight iterations as well at shows like Mary Katrantzou, where Val Garland fashioned an inky elongated almond line with a blend of MAC Lipmixes in Blue and Red, and perhaps most notably at Altuzarra. “I think it’s so chic,” Tom Pecheux said of MAC’s Technakhol Pencil in Auto-de-blu—”a royal blue,” he declared backstage at the designer’s show—which he brushed along upper lash lines to a squared-off edge. That right there is endorsement enough for us.