RFW Report: In Rio, Two Takes on the Femme Fatale
Winter clothes on the runway during fashion week in Rio? Seems like an oxymoron. Shocking as it may be, there are a few items that quickly become fall essentials for any Carioca. And now that the official Brazilian fashion week schedules changed, (from a sweltering 100-degree January to an easy-breezy week in October—thank God), we are less likely to cringe at the sight of leather.
My favorite show this season was Patricia Viera. A longtime devotee to spiritual healing, Patricia found inspiration in her recent visits to the Light Institute in Santa Fe, N.M. The terra-cotta runway channeled the Southwestern desert and suitably enhanced the beautiful floral prints inspired by Georgia O’Keeffe, another cultural treasure from New Mexico. But what is always shocking about Patricia’s work, to those who are unfamiliar with it, is that these beautifully designed wind-swept dresses are actually made out of…leather. Meticulously applied laser cuts gave a fresh take to the looks, in ultrathin, silk-like leather or chamois. The earth-tone ethnic stripes were a crowd-pleaser, but I tend to find a special beauty in the monochromatic looks, where the details of construction and the purity of the fabric are more palpable.
In Andrea Marques’ Fall/Winter 2014 presentation, monochromatic looks gave way to tone-on tone productions, inspired by the “surrealism of modern-day divas.” The Rio-born designer (who happens to be Patricia’s sister-in-law) put on another hit show this season. Magenta and burgundy were fruitfully juxtaposed in a geometric-shaped dress and top-and-skirt look.
Elegant and original, Marques’ looks continue to dress Rio’s most sophisticated women who long to have a little bit of fun with minimalism. This season, the accessories are as amusing as it gets, especially the elongated lip belt, which secures a sexy silhouette to the kimono-cut dresses and the chic lavender jumpsuit—my favorite look.
Photos: Courtesy of Patricia Viera; Andrea Marques