MBKFD Report: Young Ukrainian Designers on Our Radar
Being a multidisciplinary platform, Kiev Fashion Days not only provides designers an opportunity to showcase their collections but also enables photographers, stylists, fashionistas, and all sorts of creative people to express themselves. I am sure that all the collections showed on the third day of the fashion week will be a source of inspiration for all these creatives in the future. And so, let’s talk details.
Guests of Anton Belinskiy’s show discovered an amazing location—the museum of technology, where two old cars are a part of the current exhibition and served as a backdrop for the show (above). The designer’s street casting was in tune with his sportswear-inspired collection—girls were particularly comfortable in their oversize parkas, sweaters with fur accents, and quilted shorts. The last fur coat, with a pink hem, has already been reserved by several It girls, proving that the designer managed to present a product that makes girls go crazy!
Lera Leshchova’s collection was divided into two main parts: one inspired by traditional woven art from the Carpathian Mountains, and the second one playing with an idea of a light futurism, seen in ensembles with metallic accents. Both parts of the collection were strong enough to make me think that Leschova has found her way in fashion. She is moving her relatively young label into the future without forgetting to pay tribute to her roots.
Ksenia Schnaider is an example of a perfect contemporary collaboration: created by trained designer Ksenia, the brand became a duo when she married a graphic designer, Anton. Together they invent clothes that are inspired by workwear, monk’s robes, and school uniforms. As a result, we saw a collection of comfortable pieces with the correct hint of fashion edge, so one looks fashionable but never overdressed. Ksenia Schnaider’s camouflage already became her trademark, and was used by the brand long before it was proclaimed fashionable. That’s what Schnaider’s brand is so strong at: predicting and working with trends that are yet to become mainstream.
Paskal’s new collection was built around bright hues (like pink and sunny yellow) and perforation, which has already become a hallmark of her designs. The delicate manner of her clothes has already lead designer Yulia to be short-listed for the LVMH prize, which gave her an opportunity to be seen by the best minds in the world of fashion. The next thing for the designer to do is sell her styles worldwide, as this kind of clothing never fails to make women look more beautiful.
Yasya Minochkina’s energy is unstoppable. If she wasn’t a designer, I bet she would run for the upcoming presidential elections in Ukraine! Minochkina had three catwalk shows this season: London and Moscow fashion weeks, and now Kiev Fashion Days. Her collection of chic, wearable, sport-inspired clothes with a twist will no doubt be loved and worn worldwide.
From the Fashion Scout Kiev section, I very much appreciated the work of Russian designer Alisa Kuzembaeva. Her structured pieces with stiff collars were something I’ve never seen before, and proved that the designer has a very unique imagination. Krasilnikova’s audience gave her a standing ovation, so impeccable is the level of her craft. Her 3-D-printed shoes have already become a sort of legend in the industry, and her work with leather and knits is placing Krasilnikova in the highest echelon of fashion designers. Olga Stelmakhova, the designer behind the label Ostel, was confident with all sorts of layering. Bogdan Kass presented his vision of a gothic mood, which is very close to his personal style; Design It prizewinner Taras Volyn opted for classical femininity, and Natali Dudka played with the colors of the Ukrainian flag. Lara Quint, who has successfully showed her collection during London fashion week, held a presentation with a musical performance by Melting Clouds.
These younger talents proved their ambitions are no less high than those of their older counterparts. The young generation of designers is on its way!
Photos: Konstantin Chernichkin