In just a few years, Belgian wunderkind Olivier Theyskens has established himself as one of the most powerful creative personalities in fashion. His show opened with a series of sleek, hard-edged leather pieces that suggested the need for protection, not only from the weather, but from urban life in generallong, bulky leather coats with zippers were worn with ruched long skirts and sleek pants that flared at the bottom. Great-looking tuxedo suits with side fastenings, knit sweater dresses (sometimes with the tuft of an even longer, voluminous skirt peeking out) and a modern take on legwarmers, that reliable '80s favorite, added to the eclectic mix. Of course, there were also a few breathtaking feats of constructionmassive ball skirts worn as either part of a dress, or with an equally huge coat on top. It was a visually arresting presentation that assured Theyskens a prominent spot in fashion's future.