At 25, Brazilian designer Icarius de Menezes clearly has a talent for precise cutting, which is already obvious in both his flouncy, asymmetric gowns and sharp tailoring. After his debut Paris collection alluding to the gaudy excess of beauty pageants, de Menezes whipped up a heady combination of references for Fall: Fitted white coats and bomber jackets were livened up with a red armband or a dangling streamer; body-hugging jeans and bondage-inspired trousers stood in sharp contrast to his woolly gray suits and quasi-monastic, ethereal capes. Prints on smart blouses and dresses included everything from Hermès-like motifs to magazine images and iconic drawings. Icarius graduated from Brazil's increasingly important Santa Marcelina fashion school and briefly worked at Brazilian Vogue before decamping to the City of Light. "São Paulo is becoming very important in terms of design," he says. "But my big opportunity, for the moment, is in Paris."