Martine Sitbon's opening looksa long, dark, loose
overcoat thrown over straight pants, a military jacket
and a wrap skirt with a sexy corsetannounced that we
were in for another rendition of the
masculine/feminine play of opposites that has been so
prevalent this season.
Sitbon did it well. Leather skirts with lace insets on the side, pert blazers with puffed shoulders, and safari jackets with patch pockets will be functional and eye-catching additions to any wardrobe. Dresses with spider-web embroideries, distressed sides, and tulle and paillette layers were simultaneously flirty and stone-hard. Less interesting were the red-and-black printed cocktail numbers (which came and went without leaving a lasting impression) and the overly revealing lingerie slips.
Still, as a whole, Sitbon's collection offered plenty of strong clothes that are perfectly practical yet manage to stand out from the pack.