As if to prove once and for all that he is up to the
task of designing for Givenchy or any other major
fashion house, Olivier Theyskens presented what was
undoubtedly one of the strongest, most brilliant
collections of the season.
With an unerring sense of proportion and color, the
Belgian designer showed massive coats that folded upon
themselves to become a skirt. A gigantic violet pouf
was worn with a wide-knit black cardigan. His
all-in-one tweed skirt-and-coat combo was a veritable
feat of engineering. Theyskens' poetic experiments did
not end there: Knit fur jackets were backed with
colorful linings to match their metallic buttons; an
imperious strapless white dress came with a fur inset
and a sweeping train.
Theyskens lightened his presentation with boxy black suits,
skinny white trousers and little mint-julep dresses,
proving that he can also create impeccable
clothes for everyday life.
What else could he possibly
show in under 20 minutes? How about sexy, shiny
underwear that's far too fabulous to be worn in
private, or sculptured heels with a coy bump in the back?
Clearly, Theyskens is anything but short of ideas.