Once again Ruffo Research managed to inject a powerful
dose of street smarts into an otherwise conventional
Milanese fashion week.
Sophia Kokosalaki's second and final collection for
the well-known leather house gave a lesson in strong
femininity. Chocolate-suede dresses edged in black
leather looked simultaneously sweet and deathly cool;
savage-looking braided straps, odd bits of tulle and
featherlike tufts of goat skin gave a primitive edge
to perfectly cut tops. But Kokosalaki also proved that
she can go for classic designwith an edge, of course.
Her long leather coat stands out miles from the pack
thanks to a simple diagonal row of buttons; a black
leather blazer is decorated with a trompe-l'oeil lapel
trim, and a sharp skirt reveals a teardrop of skin at
the hips. Kokosalaki also scored a hit with several
divine sheared shearling coats that put the softest of
furs to shame.
With its sharp eye for recognizing and nurturing new
talent, Ruffo Research is proving to be not only a
powerful innovator in Italian fashion, but
also a key label for insiders.