Working almost exclusively in black, Tom Ford took
confident steps toward defining his vision for Yves
Saint Laurent Rive Gauche.
A couple of pink-and-amethyst short
dresses trimmed in waffle pleats opened the show; from
that moment on, Ford's only concession to color was a
deep aubergine tone that surfaced sporadically.
The monochromatic scheme forced the audience to focus
on the design of the clothes. Saint Laurent's famous
gypsies migrated to the new millennium, their fringed
skirts and off-the-shoulder peasant dresses intact but
updated for urban life. Ford also provided an
impressive array of fitted jackets with ruffled
lapels, leader-of-the-band coats, sumptuous
shearlings and stern military overcoats with
epaulettes and thick belts.
The precise focus of Ford's collection extended to the
accessories: The new YSL Rive Gauche thick-heeled, wide-strap
heels, no-nonsense boots and graphic rectangular cases
should be flying off the shelves next fall.