Jeremy Scott's New York debut ended fashion week with a jolt of high energy andin a week of monochromatic, subdued tonesvivid color.
The Missouri-born designer, who came to fame in Paris before relocating to Los Angeles, chose New York to show his largestand most commercially
viablecollections to date. And while Scott may not be ready for prime
time, he certainly entertained a jaded audience.
Scott opened with a series of very mini coats and dresses in amped-up
sherbet tones, all infused with his Grace JonesmeetsJudy Jetson spirit
(read: sky-high collars and exaggerated, cartoonish shoulder treatments).
While the silhouettes were futuristic, the fabrics were resolutely
traditional: wool felt, leather and soft jersey. One coat, a sheared mink
wrap shown on an otherwise naked model, was basically a furry fig leaf. And
while they were wacky, the clothes were well constructed: The manufacture
was overseen by a former employee of the notoriously picky designer James
Scott's tongue-in-cheek attitude was very apparent, but he's also showing a
new maturity as a designer. After the far-out coats, he showed a group of
knit dresses that were eminently wearable. But those who lean to the left of
fashion center shouldn't worry that Scott, who used to end his shows with a
cry of "Vive l'avant garde!" has sold out. He ended the presentation with a
group of elaborately constructed dresses designed to resemble New York City
skyscrapers. If Björk needs something to wear to the Oscars, she need look