The name Jil Sander has always been a touchstone to subtle-minded, confident
women who demand rigor and sophistication in their clothes. With Milan Vukmirovic in the design
seat, the label has seen an infusion of comfort and color to which its avid
followers should have no problem relating.
For Fall, the essential Sander values were reflected in two
immaculate white coats, one in a bathrobe shape with a knitted collar, the
other cut collarless in double-face cashmere. A strong line in
office-appropriate cardigan knits ran through the show sometimes matched
with long ribbed scarves and beanie hats. Those desperately seeking an
interesting pantsuit, meanwhile, will find it in sand-colored needlecord,
tailored on the bias with a stand-up collara creative twist on one of fall's
ubiquitous fabrics. New to this formerly stark collection is the influx
of the color purple and a concentration on feminine eveningwearmost
successfully in a simple black velvet knee-length dress with long gathered
sleeves, and a sweatshirt worn over a narrow beaded floor-length
Vukmirovic is not an abstract thinker, but he brought a new warmth to the
collection by paying attention to the ideas of the women who surround him.
"The color purple came from listening to Prince," he said. "The rest was my
women friends telling me they wanted the knitwear, jogging pieces and
scarves we'd done in the menswear collection."