It would take more words than are in this entire review to fully describe
any single outfit in John Galliano's thundering, swirling, multi-everything
Fall collection. "Eskimo and Mongolian hotties! Keep the fur flying!" was
the backstage prompt to Galliano's tribe as they marauded out to flaunt
patchworked and rose-embroidered shearlings, extra-flouncy skirts, chiffons,
bobbly striped knits and a whole load more in the delighted faces of an
audience that included Lenny Kravitz and Kate Moss.
Galliano likes to tease commentators by keeping a couple of leagues ahead of
their ability to document his continent-hopping inspiration, basic-to-deluxe
materials and bewildering repertoire of techniques. Suffice it to say that
this show included Chinese brocade and dragon-head motifs, Spanish fringe,
Scottish tartan, Peruvian pom-poms, American-Indian moccasins, lace-printed
denim, salmon skin, satin embroidery, rough-hewn fur, and feathers.
Galliano is amongst the small band of designers who stand up for the value
of individuality in a season when color, workmanship and the confidence of
singular points of view have been all too frequently stifled by commercial
pressure. The irony, of course, is that single pieces from
this collection will look far more seductive on a store rack than any
number of black cashmere turtlenecks.