It's been a long time since models took it as part of their job description
to va-va-voom to the end of the runway, throw a pose and come on to the
photographers in a "fabulous me" kind of way. So long, indeed, that the
joy-starved London crowd was seized by a sudden gratitude to Julien
Macdonald for putting on a show that included go-for-it girls, glitter, gold
and, yes, glam rock.
In a take-no-prisoners collection, Macdonald referenced the '70s heyday
of David Bowie and Jerry Hall in flashy embroidered jackets, leopard spots,
shaggy fox furs, sexy knickers, jumpsuits and unbuttoned satin vests.
Exaggerated Bowie quiffs, big teased hairdos and fuchsia lipstick turned up
Macdonald's aesthetic to full volume, a message that will be heard loud and
clear by women who also love Versace and Roberto Cavalli.
What's the difference for Macdonald between designing in London and at
Givenchy in Paris? "I can be cheeky and sexy
and take risks here," he said. "Paris is bourgeois; in London, it's more
fun. I'm swinging back to the old days of David Bowie and Anita Pallenberg,
when British celebrity ruled the world. I just wanted to show my respect for
London by showing here."