Markus Lupfer's collection, shown in a lofty church in Notting Hill, was
inspired by woodland nymphs, fairies and elvespart of the Lord of the
Rings tendency that is surfacing here and there this season.
Lupfer may have delved into his German romantic imagination for the storybook sources of this show, but what he produces is always done with a light, accessible spin. He mixed browns, dusty pinks and soft, iridescent greens in layerings of antique leather and chiffon that moved his collection out of the ladylike mode he established in the late '90s, and into something hipper. For Fall, his emphasis was on texture and detail: pony-skin jackets, nut-brown leather skirts that showed a kick of black-and-white print in the pleats, delicate lace-printed chiffon dresses over cashmere sweaters. Standouts were his coats, especially a swinging modernized riding coat seamed to curve into the waist and a geometrically pieced brown-and-black felt patchwork overcoat studded with wooden beads. With the addition of tribal-influenced braids and leather and coin jewelry, the result was a boho look Lupfer's Portobello followers will relate to.