Rick Owens' show was part of An American View, sponsored by STYLE.com and Vogue.
Los Angeles-based designer Rick Owens was supposed to make his New York
with his Spring show, but cancelled after the September 11 terrorist attacks.
Today he presented a Fall collection entitled "Sparrow" that showed
the technical skill and romantic-goth vision that's won him a loyaland
"We've carried him for the last five years, and our business just keeps
growing," said Ed Burstell, vice president and general manager of Henri Bendel.
"It's a cult; women love the way he fits the body."
The mood of Owens' presentation was sombera dark, raw space and a sound track
Alice Cooper and Iggy Popbut the clothes were gently sexy and even cozy.
one for color (despite his indigenous climate), Owens worked in grays,
white, black and taupe. Long clinging dresses were paired with fuzzy
ankle-length sweater coats,
while soft, baggy corduroy pants looked great with the distressed leather
jackets the designer is known for. Judging by a black corduroy tuxedo
jacket, Owens can
do traditional tailoring, but his real love is innovative draping.
Owens pays as much attention to the back of a garment as its front, creating
and clever details, like an unexpected hood made from a swell of fabric.
Most outfits were topped by a monkish balaclava helmet, emphasizing the
elongated, flowing silhouette and lending a cultish, otherworldly air to the