The excitement in watching Roland Mouret is the way he walks a fine line
between French romanticism and the London gutter. As a Frenchman, he's
obsessed with making beautiful fabrics run over a woman's body like a
whispered compliment; as a guy who lives in London, he knows a Gallic cliché
when he sees one.
Mouret's clothes are for women who can't stand overdressing
at night, but still want to turn on the seduction. Which they can do
perfectly in a chiffon
dress with billowing sleeves, or a dramatically simple neck-to-floor column
of black jersey that turns to show a naked back.
Newer for Mouret this season is his addition of structured tailoring, like
belted jackets with strong shoulders, bouclé pants and a navy trenchcoat
with overstitched seaming, all with a faintly '40s air. Even more impressive
is the changing backdrop against which Mouret's clothes are shown. What was
once an off-schedule date in gritty Bermondsey is now an affair amongst
gleaming chandeliers in Christie's. Flattery
will get you everywhere.