To the strains of Madonna’s “Holiday” and “Like a Virgin,” a parade of Park Avenue punk princesses strolled down the Moschino runway, which was lit by a disco ball and a border of lightbulbs suggesting a diva’s dressing-room mirror.
The raunchy Moschino gals, as imagined by creative director Rossella Jardini and designer Vincent Darré, looked like early-80s wannabe-starletsthe kind once featured in Andy Warhol’s Interview, the kind who ransacked their mothers’ closets in search of vintage glamour. Luxe mink-trimmed and jet-beaded satin evening jackets and coats were accessorized with jewels that might have been scooped up at random from momma’s dressing table. These bourgeois props were mixed with short 50s prom petticoats in nylon tulle (blowing their coat skirts to pneumatic proportions) and satin ski pants. Patent Courrèges-style go-go boots and Rubik’s Cube eyewear rounded out a look that was just right for storming Studio 54 or braving the Mudd Club.
The 80s-60s clash is a strong trend this season, and the Moschino design team married it well to the house's spirit of jokey classics. Paco Rabanneinspired dresses were made from large discs seemingly cut out of “Moschino” beer cans, while mohair tunic sweaters were belted in patent leather. (Lightbulb earrings, on the other hand, did not come across as the brightest idea on the block.) Born actresses Natasha Vojnovic and Rie Rasmussen led the Material Girls for the finale, vamping it up à la Janice Dickinson and Pat Cleveland.