So what made this twenty-first-century Tom and not 1970s Yves? The way Ford knocked the stuffing out of what had become an ossified conservative look with a series of cheeky, knowing twists. There’s nothing ladylike about silk-chiffon dresses that are so sheer you can see straight through to the fishnets beneath. About a blouse neckline that dips below the bra. Or the lace-filled cutouts he planted into the flanks of a pair of black leather pants. (If that puts him in line for criticism, it’s worth remembering that once upon a time Saint Laurent himself came under fire for so-called bad taste.) Simply put, there was enough beauty and controversy in this collection to make it a talking pointand a money spinnerfor the next six months. Which means Tom Ford has done it again.