It's easy to search for serious messages in Yohji Yamamoto's famously deep fashions. But this season, at least, the designer would rather you didn't. To hear him tell it, the Fall collection for his secondary line, Y's, is about serendipity. The goal was to give himself a break, in other words, to try not to try too hard.
That's not to say the collection was thrown together carelessly. The astute signatures that have won the designer such a devoted following were certainly in evidence: his witty takes on menswear for womenmost notably the oversize trousers and skirt-from-the-front-pants-from-the-back hybridsand his variations on the kimono wrap and drape, put through a street-style filter.
But, according to Yamamoto, a lot was left to chance. He described the collection's Crayola-bright colors as "accidents"the result of bleaching and overdyeing. The silky ribbons trailing off long knotted sashes were actually the ends of threads normally trimmed after the macramé is done; Yamamoto left them on because he liked the way it looked.
The oversize knits had that same easy, go-with-the-flow appeal. The best of the bunch had the feel of cocoonswarm, cozy homes that you carry on your back. That's something Yohji fans will certainly appreciate next winter.