It’s not by chance that Narciso Rodriguez calls his meticulous jackets and dresses “constructed.” They’re cut, shaped, and sewn with a relentless attention to detail that might have made Mies van der Rohe reconsider his calling. But for fall, Rodriguez’s chilled-to-perfection, skintight dresses and suits got a bit warmer with the help of plush fabrics, a sprinkling of fluffy fur, and even (gasp) some ruffles.
Never fear, Rodriguez followers: His signature body-hugging designs in monastic black or cream are still clearly the engine that drives the line and delights his front row (which included Sarah Jessica Parker, Kristin Davis, and Claire Danes). But there’s a new sensuousness working its way into the intellectual exercise: Electric-blue piping streaks around the torso of a black dress; satin ribbon hugs the curves of a black pencil skirt; cozy little shrugs come in ballet-pink cashmere or a pouf of black shearling.
While he showed a few slim trousers, Rodriguez loves skirts and dresses, and that’s where he really cut loose. Alongside his beloved pencil, there were flippy gored styles, ruffly satin cha-cha looks, and some lovely A-line pieces packed with rows of tiny lace ruffles. For evening, he twisted yards of sheer ribbon around the torsos of satin-skirted gowns; just the right wrapping for his smart, cool customers.