For fall, de la Renta played up the curves, showing hip-hugging pencil skirts and bias-cut A-line shapes that undulated beneath slim, snug jackets or lush cashmere sweaters. Tweed is the fabric of choice this season, but de la Renta never let his fabrics get too heavy; a neatly cut, nubby grey dress ended in a waft of flirty fluff at the hem, while a brown flared skirt got a lift from a spray of guinea hen feathers. De la Renta also loves a fur trim and he worked sable, shearling, mink, and lamb into places both expected (collars, cuffs, vests, and coats) and otherwise (the edge of a skirt).
De la Renta’s evening looks, all garnished with Fred Leighton jewels, hit a series of luxurious highs. A Balenciaga-esque cascade of satin poured down the back of a strict, fitted satin sheath, while a dramatic black-tulle bustier was paired with a swinging beaded skirt. And for those with a fairy-tale ball in their future, any of the designer’s star-spangled tulle gowns will be just the ticket.