Bradley’s brief, buoyant fall collection (his second in the tents) showed his deft hand with tricky elements. There were delightfully unexpected color combinations (a yellow wool coat trimmed with gray fox, a coral and green lace dress) and intense, attention-grabbing fabrics, like bold tweeds or elaborate jacquards shot through with metallic and layered with lace. Beautiful tweed jackets had Tuleh’s signature twists: raw edges, extended cuffs, and dressmaker details, plus an occasional camellia-adorned lapel, to make clear their debt to Chanel. For night, he turned the volume down, showing only a few mutely simple black silk dresses and gowns.
The designer wisely kept silhouettes simple and tailored, occasionally adding a knee-grazing scarf or some giant clear buttons for a bit of whimsy. And that’s the secret to Tuleh’s success: a sense of fun that came through loud and clear in the tissue-thin cashmere T-shirts, printed with a Tuleh logo that looked like it could have come off a bottle of barbecue sauce and a range of mottos, including “we is (sic) family.” Those T-shirts, layered over silky dresses and blouses, are destined for socialite closets worldwidealong with the rest of this collection.