Dissect this hodgepodge of color and texture and there is plenty to crave. For the dandy, the rust ponyskin jacket, perhaps, or the big sweaters based on Afghani carpet patterns (a last-season inspiration that clearly still has legs). For the more subdued gent, a houndstooth topcoat or a pair of plaid pants. The full spectrum of the show could be encompassed by this contrast: the pink sweater over a lilac gingham shirt versus the leather biker's vest under a black velvet jacket. Dressing up with spine and spunkthat was the ticket to a collection that added some necessary lead to Mr. Smith's pencil.