For his fall 2005 menswear presentation, Ralph Lauren eschewed the runway, opting to show three collections from his ever-expanding stablePurple Label, Black Label, and Poloby appointment. The showroom setting served to emphasize just how wearable and well-cut these clothes are. Purple Label, with its luxurious cream cashmeres and impeccably tailored single- and double-breasted charcoal suits, continued to offer a compelling vision for the way contemporary masters of the universe ought to dress. At Black Label, there was an emphasis on narrow silhouettes, with refined three-quarter-length coats in velvet and leather. With Polo meanwhile, Lauren offered his own well-practiced spin on the sporty-dressy mix that has been so prevalent this season: a white hoodie under a gray pinstripe suit, tweed jackets paired with brightly colored cargo pants, and a series of corduroy trousers in eye-popping shades. In its own way, each collection stayed true to the quintessentially urbane American style that has come to define all things Ralph.