Londoners Zowie Broach and Brian Kirkby brought their act this season to New York for the first time, showing 24 precision-cut pieces in a palm-frond-decorated room at the Soho Grand Hotel.
The (almost) all black collection perfectly captured the strengths of the line, which marries the aggressiveknifelike pleats, pointed shoulders, militaristic fringed epauletswith the hopelessly romantic (layers of lace floating down from leather waistbands and around strictly tailored suits). Jackets and skirts were embroidered with words and quotes from sources as diverse as Morrissey and Visconti, while surreal "exploding" eyepieces were balanced by corsages.
Boudicca is not for the faint of heart (the label is, after all, named for an ancient British warrior queen), but there were streamlined pieces here that could be incorporated into many a wardrobe. A three-pocket coat had classic proportions, wool jackets were nipped attractively at the waist, while a cropped jacket in a varnishy Lurex looked as light as paper. Broach and Kirkby also revisited their signature puffer, this time in embossed brown leather.