For Los Angeles-based designer Jasmin Shokrian, her first show in New York was a happy, almost unreal experience that's been a long time in the planning. Like a lot of her young peers, she opted to show a small number of well-edited pieces. The first look, a black wool crepe dress, with one sculpted petal sleeve and a tucked, asymmetric hem showcased her training as a sculptor (at the School of the Art Institute of Chicago), while a silk crepe skirt with a balloony polka-dot front suggested her affinity for Japanese design à la CDG and Watanabe.
Shokrian worked her considerable draping and tailoring techniques on a variety of fabrics, often layering darkly colored and substantial wools and brocades over sheer, lightly colored chiffon tops, to varying degrees of success. A wool coat with detachable canvas layer seemed bulky, while her strict, cocoony capelets were chic. The highlight of the show was a black wool jersey dress, anchored by a leather beltan eminently wearable evening look. (Its cousin, a more casually chic tunic-length version, was shown over pants.)
Shokrian's sculptural leanings can, at times, take her into overly abstract territory, but her more body-conscious designs should appeal to the adventurous urban consumer.