What do you get when you enlist a Sardinia-based multitasker to design a Japanese label owned by a French conglomerate? A multi-culti 72-look extravaganza, complete with a patchwork of rich tapestries for a backdrop and an extra-wide runway lined with lush greenery. For his third outing for LVMH-owned Kenzo, Antonio Marras (who presents his own collection in Milan and is also the creative director of Trend les Copains) sent out a grand tour's worth of embroideries, florals, lamés, tartans, velvets, and crochets.
It was a rich panoply, held together rather loosely with grand volumes, acid-bright colors, and thin hippie-esque headbands stretched across the models' foreheads. Perhaps too richsome excellent pieces, like tweedy riding jackets, needlepoint-embellished djellaba tunics (paired sillily with plaid pants), and tulip-sleeve turtleneck sweaters, among others, got lost in the fray. But there was no missing Marisa Berenson, who closed the show wearing a floor-length floral dress and a fur-trimmed cape with flats in true nouveau boho fashion.