Rifat Ozbek's conceit for fall was a conflation of the sixties and the twenties. Like the wigs sported by his models (composed of a Louise Brooks bob plonked on top of a long fall of hippie locks), it made for a bemusedly busy mix of styles, with a slew of ethnic patterns, patchwork, and embroidery thrown in for good measure.
For all the high-spirited kookiness of the presentation, though, this isn't a collection for far-out fashion freaks. Separated out on a boutique rack, the gold lace pants, Empire-waist print dresses, fur-trimmed brocade bombers, and beaded coats will seem perfectly wearable to a mainstream shopper. And the label is showing definite signs of growth: This season, it has added striped boots and shoes by Georgina Goodman, and big soft leather sack bags that have the hallmarks of a house signature.