Bad television reception qualifies as Milan fashion
week's most idiosyncratic inspiration, which will
probably make the independent-minded Italo Zucchelli
very happy. The pixelated bands of color on his
knitwear and the black-and-white distortion that
patterned an entire suit had the abstract but graphic
quality that the Calvin Klein menswear designer has
always loved. Again on show in his tailoring were the
tonic fabric effects he is also partial to, though
he's shortened the jackets, broadened the shoulders,
and significantly tightened the trousers for fall. The
result: a chunky bully-boy silhouette.
In the past, Zucchelli's collections have been built
on a face-off between smooth and rough, and that
dichotomy was evident here too. On the one hand, there
was a shirt stitched in sophisticated grids; on the
other, a leather sweatshirt with zippered shoulders.
And the face-off continued in Zucchelli's new focus on
the coat, which he offered in an array of fabrics:
Harris tweed, nubbly wool, shearling with exposed
seams, and gabardine, matched to trousers.
The famed Calvin Klein affinity for the American
Southwest came through in a chunky sweater that, from
one sleeve to another, was graded to suggest sunset
shading into night. There were alsoagain the
smooth with the roughlizard loafers that could
have slipped straight off a reptile's back.