Dries Van Noten is old enough to remember Jerry Hall
waving the tail of her tiger suit in the video for
Bryan Ferry's Let's Stick Together, back in the
days when Jerry and Ferry were rock's most woosome
twosome. The glamorous spirit of that era animated his
new collection, which he set to the tune of a
remarkable mash-up of Ferry's music by 2manydjs. "Now
that their fathers and grandfathers have taken over
sportswear, young men have a desire to dress," Van
Noten said backstage.
The designer based his clothes on three
proportionadding a shot of Ferry's own style for
good measure. The coats, cut big and broad-shouldered
(the best one flaring in the back), and the slightly
boxy suits had a strong whiff of the singer's
forties-via-the-seventies matinee idol presence. There
was a suggestion of bespoke in the peak of a jacket
shoulder, and a dandy nonchalance in buckled croc
shoes worn sockless.
Warming things up was a zooful of exotic prints. The
leopard print looked best on a raincoat and a faded
blouson (worn over a shot silk waistcoat in old gold).
When it showed up as a fake-fur jacket, it simply
screeched for the Roxy Music reunion that is imminent.
But so did the gold snakeskin shoes. And unrepentant
glam rockers will run, not walk, to snare the python-print suit. Given the measured tenor of Dries'
collections in the past, the fabulosity of this one
was about as surreal as the canopy of hundreds of
umbrellas under which it took place.