Like a broadcast from an alternate universe, José
Lévy's collection for Emanuel Ungaro offered a
vision of menswear so outré it was impossible to
place in any kind of contemporary context. Show notes
informed us that the Ungaro man was a tiger, a quality
underlined by the big-cat growls that punctuated the
soundtrack. But this kitty seemed both lost and
Tiger prints appeared throughout the presentation as a
design in black on the back of a white turtleneck, or
picked out in caviar beading on an evening jacket.
Another favored motif was an orchid, which adorned a
white sweater in a black patent appliqué or
constituted a print on a jacket. Then, just as we
appeared to have settled into a uniform
black-and-white palette (with black patent shoes and
black leather gloves as accessories), there arrived a
blouson in searing-hot pink, with matching jeans, then
the same in purple, and a shirt that exploded into
strawberry pink ruffles. Somewhere, a cruise ship
band needed its costumes back.
A cummerbund clasped with a star-shaped chunk of
quartz left a last lingering impression. Back to those
show notes for the final comment. "Scary Chic," they
promised. Well, half-right, at least.