Johan Lindeberg may have taken his own lanky frame as
the starting point for his latest collection, but the
items that really registered in his show were a
handful of trousers that offered a silhouette so full,
they amounted, in one case at least, to a "paper-bag"
waist. They seemed to be a comfortable alternative to
the pipe-cleaner silhouette that Hedi Slimane and his
imitators have made the catwalk norm for men. Worn
with a wheat rollneck sweater, these particular pants
suggested succor, not strain.
Lindeberg, however, is rock 'n' roll at heart, and the
looks that mean the most to him and his wife (and
muse) Marcella are those that suggest life lived on
the razor's edge, where his current poster boy,
Depeche Mode's Dave Gahan, has teetered time and
again. So there was an abundance of cropped skinny
jackets, tight little waistcoats, and jeans as fitted
as a leotard. Bridging the gap between rock and a soft
place were droopy low-closing cardigans and billowing
For those forearmed with the knowledge that belts
account for an astonishing 8 percent of Lindeberg's
$50-million-plus turnover, it was impossible not to
scrutinize the models' waistlines during the show. The
take-away? A soup-to-nuts array of cinched-in style.