Where Stuart Stockdale's take on Pringle's heritage
called for brawny Celts in kilts, his successor Clare
Waight Keller is more engaged by the epicene elegance
of the label's most famous client. Sign in please,
Edward, Duke of Windsor. Pringle supplied his
knitwear, but Keller took her cues from the overall
refined eclecticism of his approach to dressing. Hence
the chic new fit of the jackets (handpicked finishing,
Italian-tailored). Unstructured and unlined, they were
designed to emerge uncreased at their destination,
which would have been a real selling point for the
peripatetic Windsor set.
Key flourishesfully functioning surgeon's cuffs or a lapel trim cut on the biassuggested Keller was channeling the Duke's appetite for the telling detail. It was also evident in the shirting stripe that piped a trenchcoat's interior.
The famous knitwear, no longer just a V-neck or crew, ran the gamut from a cabled sweater in ten-ply cashmere to a Henley in a featherlight 18-gauge waffle-knit. And that all-important heritage made an appearance in the form of chunky wool sweaters hand-knitted in the Scottish Borders. (Keller herself has been knitting since the age of five.)