Rick Owens cast a long shadow at Pitti Uomo in Florence, not least with an installation featuring a realistic wax sculpture of himself peeing. Other sections showcased his furniture and a career retrospective, which created a comprehensive context for the launch of his fall collection. Linking each endeavor was the idea of dust, a subject in keeping with Owens's vaguely postapocalyptic aesthetic. There were several looks that could have stepped straight off the set of Dune, though the polishedOld World elegance of much of the outerwear also suggested an embrace of the past. That could have a lot to do with the sterling work that Owens has been doing for the luxe label Revillon. Equally, it ties in with his fascination with extremes: A gorgeously tailored officer's coat, piped in white at collar and shoulders, was worn over the baggy-top-and-long-john look that is something of a signature for Owensglamour and grunge in one outfit. The tone of the collection was set by a dialogue between military and sports influences. Voluminous drawstringed shorts worn over leggings could have done a skate punk or snowboarder proud, but once paired with a pristine white blouson, they became part of a uniform for new warriors of the wasteland.