Taking Puccini¿s Turandot as inspiration, Kenzo¿s Antonio Marras sent out a fanciful collection of fall clothes that taken one by one had an insouciant charm. But shown at great length and often layered, as they were, the effect became treacly. In that famous opera, the protagonist is a Chinese princess who thinks nothing of ordering the death of a suitor who can't solve her riddles; Marras could have used some of that ruthlessness when it came to editing his show.
Pinafore dresses in embroidered silk, mohair knits of roses and peonies, wrap coats and frogging details seemed in keeping with the theme. Even a camouflage vest backed in hot pink could be said to reflect the wild side of Marras¿ muse. There was less explanation, though, for a double-layer pleated tartan skirt, or a plaid coat-dress.
For the finale, a giant lantern at the back of the runway lit up and slid open to reveal the models arrayed on steps behind a blooming cherry tree. As they took one last lap, thousands of tiny petals exploded from overhead confetti machinesthank you, LVMH. Here at least, Marras stayed true to his operatic inspiration.