The new proportions that Angela Missoni mentioned before her fall show were instantly obvious in the egg-shape billow of the first pullover dress to hit the catwalk. Paired with leggings, it set the tone for a collection that veered between the capelike "egg" and a loose, drop-waist chemise silhouette. Either way, there was an unprecedented softness to Missoni this season. It was reflected in the subdued color scheme (curry was the most significant accent, but cinnamon, chocolate, dark green, gray, and nude were also prominent), as well as in the off-the-shoulder slouch of a silk dress side-tied over those ubiquitous and fresh-looking leggings.
There was a richness to the collection that also felt like a bit of a departure. Mink hemmed a skirt in the house's classic chevron pattern, and a capelet in the same fur featured bands of bugle beads. Trompe l'oeil beading, meanwhile, duplicated a scarf-tie on a silver tunic dress, emphasizing the light touch Missoni felt was essential to balance the silhouette. Lightness was evident, too, in a feather-covered dress in a sophisticated pattern the French call ramage that looked something like pussy willows. It had a hint of the japanoiserie that has been creeping around Milananother example of the way this collection, while hardly revolutionary, felt up-to-date and nicely in tune with the prevailing trends.