Change is in the air at Yigal Azrouël. The past two seasons have found the New York-based Israeli designermostly known for his feminine frocksmoving toward what he calls a "complete collection" by upping the quotient of sportswear pieces in his line. Fall's intimate presentation, a vignette styled in a shabby-chic manner, displayed a real evolution and refinement of Azrouël's aesthetic. In fact, the first piece one noticed wasn't a dress at all, but a draped washed-leather jacket worn with a chiffon blouse and pants. Evening looks, meanwhile, featured a dramatic smoking jacket. As for those dresses: A chiffon goddess gown was fetchingly caught at the bodice with strips of velvet, and a metallic lace dress in plum added a shot of color and shine.