Family tradition dictates the Missonis take to the mountains for their winter holiday. This year, Luca Missoni was actually in Tanzania (and cloud cover meant he never even saw the snow on Mount Kilimanjaro), but the collection he left behind for next winter wasat least partiallya paean to skiing. "I love its improvisation and dynamic movement," he said post-show, and his love was reflected in the energetically graphic collages of stripes, zigzags, and solids that made up much of the new season's knitwear. (The nylon hoodies were the flourish of star stylist Nicola Formichetti.) In this sense, Luca was taking his family heritage into the future, but there was also a charming, almost retro edge to items that evoked other, more leisurely mountain-based pursuits. The bobble hats and caps, the boots, the knapsacks with blanket rolls, and the knit-lined poncho suggested gentleman hikers (obviously, hikers with a finely honed appetite for color and pattern). A chunky "twinset" of a cabled sweater and an oversized cardigan seemed ideally après-ski for a man at ease with himself, much as a navy cardigan jacket thrown over a chevron-patterned suit hinted at the nonchalant luxury that is the essence of Missoni's allure.