Yohji Yamamoto's ardor for Americana has been exercised for years on his catwalks, but Hunter College's basketball court was a particularly inspired choice of venue for the latest Y-3 show. While college kids dispensed drinks and popcorn, and soccer's iconic bad boy Zinedine Zidane watched from the front row, Yohji and Adidas offered up their latest permutation of activewear and avant-garde. The overt branding on the clothes may have transformed the models into Team Yohji, but the line's increasing sophistication yielded a washed-leather coat in a particularly alluring shade of green, or an orange motocross jacket, also in washed leather.
The proportion plays that typify Yohji's workshort over long, long over longershowed up in a herringbone suit with cropped drawstring pants, or a huge ribbed cardigan over a full-length kilt over olive drab pants. Kilt? Perhaps "skirt" would be more appropriate for the wrapped items that Yohji showed. Maybe he was drawing on the same Japanese source of inspiration as Thom Browne earlier in the week. The designer's fascination with Edwardiana was evident in an awning-striped double-breasted jacket or breeches (even if they were shown in nylon). But it was quite clear that Y-3's bread and butter is not fashion but footwear. The endless march-past of trainers, high-tops, moon boots, and baskets compelled a paraphrase of that old line: Bet you can't pick just one or two or three.